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Over the years that we have been in business, we have learned that some questions are common for people who are new to the joys of antique jewels. We hope to answer some of the questions you may have about buying antique and estate jewelry.

Q) How do I know the value of a piece of antique jewelry?

A) The value is made up of many different and important components including: intrinsic value, rarity, workmanship, conditions, design, provenance, marks and /or signatures and wearability. Each of these may add to, or detract from, the value of the jewel.

Q) What do you mean by intrinsic value?

A) Simply, if you dismantled a piece, what would its parts be worth? The component parts are a commodity and each has a value in the market place that can be documented. For example, loose diamonds and gold sell at a specific listed price available to the consumer.

Q) How does rarity affect the value of jewelry?

A) This can have a major impact on the price of a piece of jewelry. Ask yourself, how likely would it be to find another. Especially rare pieces are usually one of a kind. They may have been by special commission; difficult to make for one reason or another; or contain an element not easily found or duplicated. Fabregč eggs come to mind. These were made primarily for the royal family, they were quite costly even at the time and would be difficult to duplicate.

Q) Is workmanship really that important?

A) Absolutely! The skill that goes into making a piece is crucial. There is a lot of ordinary jewelry made, but exceptional workmanship makes a piece special and more valuable. Workmanship also helps determine if a piece is really old. A hint: be sure to examine the backside of a piece to see how well made it really was.
Q) What determines how good the condition is?

A) Of course there are obvious signs that tell you the condition of a piece such as dents, scratches and broken elements. But just as important is whether or not a piece has had major repairs or changes made. Check to see if there is solder showing or elements missing or if the piece has been changed or put together with parts from another piece.

Q) How does design fit into the picture?

A) Take a look at a piece and see if it stands out for its beauty and attractiveness. Determine whether it represents a body of work that was unique for its time. Just because a piece has a large gemstone or has been signed by a well-known jewelry house does not necessarily mean it has a good design. Judging this can require a sophisticated eye. Most importantly, trust your own instincts on this.

Q) What exactly is provenance?

A) This is something that has been top of mind lately as we have seen what tremendous prices jewelry owned by Jackie Kennedy or Marilyn Monroe bring at auction. The question of who owned a piece and how it has been handed down may have an unexpected and huge influence on the value of a particular piece of jewelry.

Q) Sometimes I can see something “written” on a piece of jewelry. What does that mean?

A) Every country has had different requirements for marking jewelry. It is important to look at the back or inside of a piece to see what information is available. Often metal content is marked, sometimes the country of origin and /or a date mark are evident. On occasion, a maker will sign a piece of jewelry. All of these can influence the value of a jewel. Keep in mind that if you size a ring, for example, any marks should be kept in tact to maintain the value.

Q) What do you mean by wearability?

A) The easier it is to wear a piece, the more valuable a piece becomes. Ask yourself if the piece can be worn with ease and comfort. For example, tiaras sell less well in the United States than in Europe because they are more difficult to wear ( unless you are a movie star going to the Oscars.)

Q) If I feel overwhelmed buying a piece of antique or estate jewelry. How can I find help?

A) It is important to work with a knowledgeable dealer or shop that has a good reputation and that you can trust. You should also find an independent appraiser who specializes in “old” jewelry who can advise you about your prospective purchases. Auction houses, too, can be a source of unbiased information.

Q) What should be the final determining factor in a decision to buy?

A) That’s simple. Ask yourself, do I love it?
  

 

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